27 years ago, on July 15, 1997, one of the most talented fashion designers of his time, Gianni Versace, was murdered. This provocateur, popular for his unconventional designs and for creating a true cult of supermodels in the wild ’90s, was murdered by a serial killer. To this day, questions linger over the death of this great man, as speculations quickly arose that his murder was linked to the family’s close contacts with the mafia.
This tragic event not only shook the world of luxury fashion but also left many celebrities and ordinary people mourning the genius designer. At the age of 50, Versace was at the peak of his career in 1997, and his fashion empire was flourishing. His death was a bolt from the blue, and even years later, numerous self-proclaimed experts, as well as true authorities on the Versace family, continue to delve into it.
Just a regular, beautiful day
That morning was beautifully sunny, and Gianni was returning home from his favorite Miami café on Ocean Drive. For once, he didn’t send his assistant for his morning coffee, as he usually did. As he was unlocking the door to his luxurious villa, two shots were fired, both hitting his head. He was pronounced dead at 9????21 a.m. local time at Jackson Memorial Hospital, where he was rushed in critical condition, twenty minutes after the fatal shots were fired. Gianni was murdered by psychopath Andrew Cunanan, a drug-addicted homosexual gigolo as well as serial killer, who had already killed four men in three months. Ten days later, the FBI found Cunanan’s body; he had shot himself with the same gun he used to kill others. The motive for the murder was never fully revealed.
Speculations, rumors, uncertainties
This event inspired films and TV series, such as the famous American Crime Story: The Assassination of Gianni Versace, and several books were also published. However, all of them are somewhat speculative, as eyewitness testimonies and accounts of those who were part of Gianni’s life varied greatly, and press releases and findings by the American police were regularly disputed by Versace’s Italian family. For instance, in 2001, Donatella Versace, Gianni’s sister who took over the fashion empire after his death, sued former private detective Frank Monte. He publicly accused her family of having ties with the mafia for years, which he claimed ultimately led to her brother’s death, in his book The Spying Game. “It’s disgusting how far people are willing to go today,” raged the first lady of the fashion world, who eventually managed to have the controversial book pulled from the shelves.
Undeniable talent
Gianni Versace came from the poorest part of Calabria and grew up surrounded by fabrics and threads. His mother ran a workshop employing 46 seamstresses, sewing for the region’s aristocratic clientele. Gianni was fascinated by sewing from a young age, often helping his mother choose gemstones and gold trimmings to embellish the designs. At just ten years of age, he created his first dress. It was incredible how such a young boy could so precisely cut and sew a design. His childhood profoundly influenced him, and he later often incorporated these influences into his artistic creations. Before fully immersing himself in the world of fashion, however, Gianni began by studying architecture. At 25, he moved to Milan, working for other fashion designers as a stylist. His work caught the attention of managers of Italian labels such as Genny or Callaghan, who hired him to design their suede and leather collections. Later, as a famous designer, he said, “I knew what I wanted, but I had to be very patient. It was necessary to wait, look around, and soak up the atmosphere. Only then did I dive in, even though breaking through was not easy at all.”
Touch of Medusa
The reflection of ancient Greek and Roman art and mythology was always evident in his work, so it’s no surprise that he chose the mythical Medusa as the logo for his salon, founded in 1976 with the support of his older brother Santo and younger sister Donatella. According to ancient legend, no one could escape Medusa’s gaze. “I wanted to break all existing rules and conventions,” he said in an interview. His favorite motifs on fabric prints included elements from Corinthian and Doric orders, inspired by Italian galleries and architecture, often combining the uncombinable. For example, he merged the ornamentalism of the Renaissance with modern designs of dresses made of steel plates resembling spacesuits. “I’d rather completely miss the mark with my vision of the world than repeat myself in a single collection,” he claimed. The artist elevated leather garments to opera attire and boldly applied purely feminine materials in men’s collections.
Building an empire
From a single salon, he built a multimillion-dollar empire with dozens of boutiques within the first ten years; another ten years later, there were 1,500 boutiques worldwide. Besides fashion, he began selling accessories, jewelry, and even interior items such as porcelain, vases, cutlery, and lamps. Gianni Versace was not only an amazing designer of extravagant fashion creations but also an attractive man. He guarded his private life, yet it was known that he was gay. He lived with his assistant and designer Antonio D’Amico for over ten years. His lifelong rival and fashion competitor was Italian designer Giorgio Armani. Where Armani offered women precisely tailored jackets, fitting pantsuits, and silk blouses, Versace showcased leather jackets, opulent gold jewelry, wild colorful prints on satin, tight black mini dresses, and evening gowns held together by gold pins. “If Armani dresses rich Italian wives, Versace dresses mistresses,” went a popular bon mot. “A woman who is funny and sexy is definitely more attractive to me than one who is just chic,” Versace said, referencing Giorgio Armani’s style.
The show must go on
Gianni Versace was the first to turn fashion shows into mega-events, playing music so loud that people couldn’t hear themselves. His runways were global stages where rock concerts and great theatrical dramas took place. He was the first designer to understand that stars, not mannequins, needed to walk the runway. He made models into celebrities, known by their first names alone. The “Sun King” created the supermodel cult, making them overshadow even Hollywood stars. In the front row sat celebrities from Madonna to Princess Diana, not nameless department store buyers. In 1991, he had Claudia, Karen, Christy, Naomi, Helena, Linda, and Cindy on one runway. During a single show, he could present a hundred designs; his models laughed and sang. No stiff walks and angry looks seen elsewhere at the time. “Designers are here to make people attractive, happy, and alive,” was his motto.
ROYAL FUNERAL
Even his own funeral was a grand show, attended by countless global celebrities as well as representatives of royal families. Princess Diana, long divorced from Prince Charles, was an honorary guest. No one could have guessed that this would be her last public appearance, as her tragic death in a Paris tunnel was only six weeks away. Elton John, a mutual friend, accompanied her to Versace’s funeral. Gianni Versace loved to provoke, he wasn’t afraid to showcase human sexuality, nor how different he was. Even though his life ended prematurely, the Versace brand, his life’s work, lives on.
